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Mixed Guide 1

Review: Patagonia Mixed Guide Pants

Jun 15 • 136 Views • No Comments on Review: Patagonia Mixed Guide Pants

I’m standing in the closet, packing for weekend of ice climbing or skiing, holding a pair of pants in each hand and asking the same old question: hard-shell or...

prusik pant

Review: OR Prusik Pants

Summer is finally upon us again and it’s time to get up and seek adventure in the high country. We dream of jamming clean splitter cracks...

Jun 8 • 152 Views

Climbing Sig Sauer at Indian Creek in the Goldrush Jeans. Photo courtesy of James Q Martin

Review: OR Men’s Goldrush Jeans

Dirtbag instincts suit the gear reviewer well. Which is why, for each and every day over the last two months I’ve worn the new...

May 25 • 515 Views

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Review: Singing Rock Penta Helmet

For the last 15 years my climbing helmets have faithfully ping-ponged back and forth between Black Diamond and Petzl, depending on who was...

May 18 • 577 Views

Vapor V M's

Review: Scarpa Vapor V

My first impression of Scarpa’s redesigned Vapor V was how comfortable they were out of the box. I sized mine tight for performance, yet...

Apr 8 • 1359 Views

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Review: Climb Tech Steel Biner with Captive Pin

Love them or hate them, fixed draws are becoming more and more of a staple in the sport climbing world. They make things more convenient,...

Mar 18 • 806 Views

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Review: Beal Opera 8.5mm Rope

Amongst the hot new climbing gear released this season, something I’m most excited about is the newest ultra-light triple-rated rope,...

Mar 4 • 1700 Views

ARC'Teryx Shaun

Review: Arc’teryx Alpha Comp

At the Climbing Zine we get lots of gear to test, sometimes too much to really wear something for longer than a few weeks. The Alpha Comp...

Jan 25 • 1490 Views

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Review: Hobie Baja Sunglasses

A line graph showing the hipness of my sunglasses over the years would look like the jagged silhouette of the Teton Range. Peaks and...

Jan 18 • 536 Views

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Beginner Dirtbagging – Where to Spend and Where to Save

To dirtbag or not to dirtbag, that is the question. The technique of dirtbagging is one that can only truly be learned by experience....

Jan 15 • 11996 Views

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Review: Osprey Mutant 28

The Mutant 28, by Osprey, packs the essentials for a minimalist looking to get into alpine, ice or vertically mixed endeavors....

Jan 14 • 1888 Views

B Griffith Nano Air

Review: Patagonia Nano-Air Hoody

For once, I’m actually psyched to “leave it on,” as their ad campaign suggests. For climbers and skiers, the best characteristic of a...

Jan 1 • 2166 Views

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Review: Westcomb Tango Hoody

Westcomb’s Tango Hoody is a formidable layer for a variety of conditions, with a lot to love in a simple, straightforward package. Having...

Dec 28 • 4136 Views

Trust The Rubber 2

New Shirts: Spread Your Legs And Trust The Rubber

“Spread your legs and trust the rubber,” it’s an old climbing saying, I first heard in Joshua Tree many years ago. We...

Nov 25 • 1183 Views

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Review: Big Turtle Shell – Wireless Speaker (Outdoor Tech)

These days, more often than not, someone in a climbing crew of craggers has a speaker. If you want the biggest and the baddest – you...

Nov 4 • 706 Views

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Review: Mammut Sensor Rope

The Mammut Sensor is a perfect name for a rope that encourages safety in the way it feels and handles. Retail: 60 meter, 10mm: $299.95 ...

Nov 1 • 1344 Views

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Review: Edelrid Corbie 8.6mm Rope

Light is Right! is the new slogan for today’s alpinism. We pare down the grams in our clothing, sleep systems, and carabiners…but is it...

Oct 25 • 1776 Views

PaleRail

Samson’s Top 5, New Climbing Products

As usual the Summer Outdoor Retailer (OR) show in August presented the latest and greatest new gear to climbing media. And, as usual Samson...

Oct 8 • 1345 Views

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Review: Evolv Addict

For a climbing slipper priced under $100 the Evolv Addict may be the best out there. The Addicts are a comfortable and durable shoe and one...

Oct 7 • 1119 Views

©Earl Harper

Review: Outdoor Research Ferrosi Hoody

Soft-shell clothing has become popular over the years because of its adaptability, allowing athletes to bring fewer clothes and be more...

Sep 11 • 2062 Views

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Review: Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device

There’s always room for innovation in climbing gear, but I thought belay devices had been pretty well figured out. I clip my ATC Guide to...

Sep 4 • 3170 Views

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Review: 5.10 Guides

The 5.10 Guide Tennies have long been my favorite approach shoes. I like them primarily for two reasons: the burly sticky rubber on the...

Aug 3 • 2123 Views

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Review: The Belaggles, Belay Glasses

“What are those?” I’ve been asked that question 20 times in the last month, while testing out my new belay glasses. They look like a...

Aug 1 • 4248 Views

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Review: Sanuk Hemp

Sanuks have always looked comfortable and sexy – I’ve wanted to check out a pair for a while now. The model I tested out the “Hemp”...

Jun 15 • 1224 Views

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Review: Scarpa Zen Pro

Amongst the wide variety of approach shoes available today, these shoes stand out as the armored tank of the fleet. They are extremely...

May 20 • 9436 Views

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Review: Core Concepts Hot Dome Hoody

I have a hard time with gear geeks, those who go on and on about features of the equipment for the outdoors. For me, I either like it, or I...

May 11 • 1519 Views

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Dirtbag State of Mind

“Everythings fine I’m in a dirtbag state of mind” In addition to getting our zines, e-zines and books out there, The...

May 11 • 1371 Views

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Gear Review: Scarpa Instinct VS

“It hurts so good”…Tom Petty must have been wearing these when he sang that line. Scarpa’s new Instinct VS brings forward all the...

May 4 • 2781 Views

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Gear Review: Outdoor Research Alibi II Glove

Let’s be honest: while mixed climbing, when most of us get to the next gear placement, we really really want it. In those delicate...

Mar 23 • 1900 Views

turtleshell

Gear Review: Turtle Shell Speaker from Outdoor Technology

Love it or hate it the crags are filled with tunes these days. Portable speakers are blowing up, and we got our hands on one of the best in...

Mar 19 • 2390 Views

Dispatches From The Void Dispatches From The Void

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The Freedom Mobile – Mehall to present in Crested Butte on July 3rd!

Jun 27 • 124 Views • No Comments on The Freedom Mobile – Mehall to present in Crested Butte on July 3rd!

Our vehicles make statements about our lifestyles, and in the mountain town of Crested Butte, Colorado there is quite the diversity in modes of transportation. From the...

Rosa Jugging

One Year Later by Nick Chambers

Climbing does not always go as planned. Rosa Malloy-Post of Durango, Colorado, is evidence of that. At the age of 23...

Jun 8 • 471 Views

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To Live Is To Fly by Luke Mehall

As I start this piece it’s that time of the year when the Animas River here in Durango looks like a chocolate...

Jun 5 • 206 Views

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Tears of Joy with Tommy Caldwell and Bob Seger

I have a road trip rule: when in doubt, listen to some Bob Seger. This rule stems from a trip a friend of mine, Ben...

May 14 • 563 Views

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The Desert is Mightier Than The Sword

I always think I’ll write about something else, but these stories keep happening. Then I realize that is the channel...

Apr 20 • 597 Views

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The Crimson Bunny (Going at it alone) by Alexis McLean

A roommate and dear friend of mine used to talk both eloquently and incessantly about her Purple Rabbit. She would...

Mar 12 • 615 Views

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Running Wild Amongst Sandy Giants by Madeline Pickering

We arrived to Creek Pasture past midnight to a deafening stillness. Unable to locate our friend’s campsite, we...

Feb 11 • 791 Views

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Remembering How to Believe by Drew Thayer

My life is now unmistakably entwined in the rhythms of grad school; work ebbs and flows, and when it flows it’s high...

Feb 10 • 530 Views

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Dawn of a New Age

I knew this whole Dawn Wall climb was big when President Obama started tweeting about it. In case you’ve been living...

Jan 25 • 747 Views

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Video: The Fitz Traverse with Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold

For us posting this video, is a case of “I don’t always (fill in the blank) but when I do…” We...

Jan 12 • 491 Views

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The Art of Roping up with a Rando by Dakota Walz

I have been alone on the road bouncing from park to park for 2 months. My car is a wreck. I rarely don’t smell...

Dec 20 • 1374 Views

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Review – High on Moab by Karl Kelley

“This book is a gift…Karl’s gift to you,” writes Fred Knapp from Sharp End Publishing, in the foreword for the...

Nov 24 • 1818 Views

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Explaining a Memorial Toilet

A memorial toilet is a hard thing to explain. But that’s exactly what my friends were constructing last weekend, a...

Nov 13 • 1384 Views

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The Rainbow Wall, Emptying Out by Drew Thayer

“This stillness to which all returns, this is reality, and soul and sanity have no more meaning here than a gust of...

Nov 2 • 2847 Views

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Buildering The Mormon Temple Released

As of today Benighted Publications’ first fiction collection is available on Kindle for $0.99. It is titled,...

Nov 1 • 394 Views

The Climbing Zine

Indian Creek Reflection, before it all slips away

The good times are moving fast these days, zipping by as we fly through space on this big ball of rock. As a writer it...

Oct 13 • 2265 Views

Lindsey and Ryan

Lindsey Schauer: The Quintessential Climbing Mom

In the Last Pitch section of the new Climbing Zine, there’s a great, sentimental piece, written by Mallory Logan....

Sep 30 • 1747 Views

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Hear Mehall on The Enormocast

Check out Climbing Zine publisher, Luke Mehall on the Enormocast with Chris Kalous. Please throw the Enormocast a buck...

Sep 11 • 1163 Views

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This is Buildering

In the deep of the twilight, the night, buzzed on something, spirits, smoke, the usual, a change occurs: an athletic...

Aug 19 • 8408 Views

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Dreaming, Waking, and Remembering What Matters by Drew Thayer

The Dream In May 2012 I leaned against the rail of the overlook on the North Chasm View Wall on a balmy afternoon,...

Jun 29 • 2684 Views

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Are We Born to Climb? by D Scott Borden

Is climbing as innate as sharing, copulating, greed, or even walking? Many evolutionary biologists would offer that the...

Jun 12 • 3341 Views

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A Scenic Cruise and Then Some in the Black Canyon by Alexa Flower

As we descended further into the dark abyss, that haunting, uncanny mood settled in once again. It was an awareness I...

Jun 9 • 2284 Views

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A Chip Off The Old Block – Is Chipping Acceptable?

Maybe I’m naive, but I thought the practice of chipping holds was dead. In my mind chipping was something we as a...

Jun 5 • 3287 Views

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To Chip Or Not To Be by Erik Durgin

Editor’s note: after learning of a new chipped route at our local crag here in Durango, the Golf Wall, The...

Jun 4 • 354 Views

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Fear and Dehydration in Colorado’s Biggest Hole by Drew Thayer

Early summer in Durango, Colorado is great. Blissful. Idyllic. A typical afternoon usually involves waking up from a...

May 27 • 1539 Views

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Who is Famous and What Is Hard? with Seth Adams

It was 2004 and Kelly Cordes and Josh Wharton had just climbed the Azeem Ridge on Great Trango Tower in Pakistan, which...

May 7 • 2022 Views

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An Ego Spanking In The Gunks by Drew Thayer

We all need to be taken down a notch, as my mother would say, every once in a while. While I don’t necessarily enjoy...

Apr 26 • 2358 Views

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The Diamond: A Pervertical Genesis by Alexa Flower

The night was silent apart from our winded breaths and quiet footsteps; largely stifled by the dirt and pine needles...

Apr 3 • 3173 Views

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A Map To The Skyland Boulders, Crested Butte, Colorado

[photo of Ben Johnson climbing Blunt Boy (5.10a) Joint Rock]  The Skyland Boulders in Crested Butte have been called...

Mar 25 • 1723 Views

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Patagonia, Lessons From a Bigger Scale by Drew Thayer

How can I describe the size of this place? How can I describe the dizzying gulfs of air below us as we claw our way...

Feb 5 • 1889 Views