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Gear Gear

Vapor V M's

Review: Scarpa Vapor V

Apr 8 • 404 Views • 2 Comments on Review: Scarpa Vapor V

My first impression of Scarpa’s redesigned Vapor V was how comfortable they were out of the box. I sized mine tight for performance, yet these asymmetric, slightly...


Review: Climb Tech Steel Biner with Captive Pin

Love them or hate them, fixed draws are becoming more and more of a staple in the sport climbing world. They make things more convenient,...

Mar 18 • 474 Views

Fay moderate ice single rope

Review: Beal Opera 8.5mm Rope

Amongst the hot new climbing gear released this season, something I’m most excited about is the newest ultra-light triple-rated rope,...

Mar 4 • 981 Views

ARC'Teryx Shaun

Review: Arc’teryx Alpha Comp

At the Climbing Zine we get lots of gear to test, sometimes too much to really wear something for longer than a few weeks. The Alpha Comp...

Jan 25 • 1225 Views

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Review: Hobie Baja Sunglasses

A line graph showing the hipness of my sunglasses over the years would look like the jagged silhouette of the Teton Range. Peaks and...

Jan 18 • 324 Views


Beginner Dirtbagging – Where to Spend and Where to Save

To dirtbag or not to dirtbag, that is the question. The technique of dirtbagging is one that can only truly be learned by experience....

Jan 15 • 10731 Views


Review: Osprey Mutant 28

The Mutant 28, by Osprey, packs the essentials for a minimalist looking to get into alpine, ice or vertically mixed endeavors....

Jan 14 • 1102 Views

B Griffith Nano Air

Review: Patagonia Nano-Air Hoody

For once, I’m actually psyched to “leave it on,” as their ad campaign suggests. For climbers and skiers, the best characteristic of a...

Jan 1 • 1676 Views

phot Jordan Junck

Review: Westcomb Tango Hoody

Westcomb’s Tango Hoody is a formidable layer for a variety of conditions, with a lot to love in a simple, straightforward package. Having...

Dec 28 • 2611 Views

Trust The Rubber 2

New Shirts: Spread Your Legs And Trust The Rubber

“Spread your legs and trust the rubber,” it’s an old climbing saying, I first heard in Joshua Tree many years ago. We...

Nov 25 • 939 Views


Review: Big Turtle Shell – Wireless Speaker (Outdoor Tech)

These days, more often than not, someone in a climbing crew of craggers has a speaker. If you want the biggest and the baddest – you...

Nov 4 • 518 Views


Review: Mammut Sensor Rope

The Mammut Sensor is a perfect name for a rope that encourages safety in the way it feels and handles. Retail: 60 meter, 10mm: $299.95 ...

Nov 1 • 1094 Views

edelrid rope rev

Review: Edelrid Corbie 8.6mm Rope

Light is Right! is the new slogan for today’s alpinism. We pare down the grams in our clothing, sleep systems, and carabiners…but is it...

Oct 25 • 1366 Views


Samson’s Top 5, New Climbing Products

As usual the Summer Outdoor Retailer (OR) show in August presented the latest and greatest new gear to climbing media. And, as usual Samson...

Oct 8 • 1089 Views


Review: Evolv Addict

For a climbing slipper priced under $100 the Evolv Addict may be the best out there. The Addicts are a comfortable and durable shoe and one...

Oct 7 • 944 Views

©Earl Harper

Review: Outdoor Research Ferrosi Hoody

Soft-shell clothing has become popular over the years because of its adaptability, allowing athletes to bring fewer clothes and be more...

Sep 11 • 1650 Views

edelrid in action belaying from top

Review: Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device

There’s always room for innovation in climbing gear, but I thought belay devices had been pretty well figured out. I clip my ATC Guide to...

Sep 4 • 2130 Views


Review: 5.10 Guides

The 5.10 Guide Tennies have long been my favorite approach shoes. I like them primarily for two reasons: the burly sticky rubber on the...

Aug 3 • 1887 Views

pink belaggles

Review: The Belaggles, Belay Glasses

“What are those?” I’ve been asked that question 20 times in the last month, while testing out my new belay glasses. They look like a...

Aug 1 • 3204 Views


Review: Sanuk Hemp

Sanuks have always looked comfortable and sexy – I’ve wanted to check out a pair for a while now. The model I tested out the “Hemp”...

Jun 15 • 1005 Views


Review: Scarpa Zen Pro

Amongst the wide variety of approach shoes available today, these shoes stand out as the armored tank of the fleet. They are extremely...

May 20 • 7912 Views


Review: Core Concepts Hot Dome Hoody

I have a hard time with gear geeks, those who go on and on about features of the equipment for the outdoors. For me, I either like it, or I...

May 11 • 1358 Views


Dirtbag State of Mind

“Everythings fine I’m in a dirtbag state of mind” In addition to getting our zines, e-zines and books out there, The...

May 11 • 1226 Views

InstinctVSblackorange (1)

Gear Review: Scarpa Instinct VS

“It hurts so good”…Tom Petty must have been wearing these when he sang that line. Scarpa’s new Instinct VS brings forward all the...

May 4 • 2405 Views


Gear Review: Outdoor Research Alibi II Glove

Let’s be honest: while mixed climbing, when most of us get to the next gear placement, we really really want it. In those delicate...

Mar 23 • 1712 Views


Gear Review: Turtle Shell Speaker from Outdoor Technology

Love it or hate it the crags are filled with tunes these days. Portable speakers are blowing up, and we got our hands on one of the best in...

Mar 19 • 1921 Views


Gear Review: La Sportiva Boulder X Mid GTX approach shoe

17.9 oz/ 508 g Suede upper, full rubber rand, Vibram sole Retail: $160.00 Back in the day there were running shoes that sucked to hike in,...

Mar 17 • 7769 Views


Gear Review: Outdoor Research Lodestar Gloves

I’ve spent a long time looking for good mid-temperature alpine and ice climbing glove. It needs to be warm enough to be useful down to...

Feb 4 • 2031 Views


Review: Mueller Euro Tape

Back in the day when I learned to tape my hands my climbing mentor taught me an elaborate process of how to do it. First we would bust out...

Feb 3 • 2207 Views


Gear Review: Petzl Tikka RXP Headlamp

Last year we posted a review of the innovative Petzl NAO headlamp, and loved the Reactive technology, but noted it was a bit heavy, and...

Dec 12 • 2788 Views

Dispatches From The Void Dispatches From The Void


The Desert is Mightier Than The Sword

Apr 20 • 253 Views • 1 Comment on The Desert is Mightier Than The Sword

I always think I’ll write about something else, but these stories keep happening. Then I realize that is the channel for which I have been created, and there is no...

standing rock and canyonlands

The Crimson Bunny (Going at it alone) by Alexis McLean

A roommate and dear friend of mine used to talk both eloquently and incessantly about her Purple Rabbit. She would...

Mar 12 • 370 Views


Remembering How to Believe by Drew Thayer

My life is now unmistakably entwined in the rhythms of grad school; work ebbs and flows, and when it flows it’s high...

Feb 10 • 361 Views


Dawn of a New Age

I knew this whole Dawn Wall climb was big when President Obama started tweeting about it. In case you’ve been living...

Jan 25 • 585 Views

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Video: The Fitz Traverse with Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold

For us posting this video, is a case of “I don’t always (fill in the blank) but when I do…” We...

Jan 12 • 335 Views

high on moab

Review – High on Moab by Karl Kelley

“This book is a gift…Karl’s gift to you,” writes Fred Knapp from Sharp End Publishing, in the foreword for the...

Nov 24 • 1564 Views

crew at memorial toilet

Explaining a Memorial Toilet

A memorial toilet is a hard thing to explain. But that’s exactly what my friends were constructing last weekend, a...

Nov 13 • 1186 Views


The Rainbow Wall, Emptying Out

“This stillness to which all returns, this is reality, and soul and sanity have no more meaning here than a gust of...

Nov 2 • 2620 Views


Buildering The Mormon Temple Released

As of today Benighted Publications’ first fiction collection is available on Kindle for $0.99. It is titled,...

Nov 1 • 275 Views

The Climbing Zine

Indian Creek Reflection, before it all slips away

The good times are moving fast these days, zipping by as we fly through space on this big ball of rock. As a writer it...

Oct 13 • 1984 Views

Lindsey and Ryan

Lindsey Schauer: The Quintessential Climbing Mom

In the Last Pitch section of the new Climbing Zine, there’s a great, sentimental piece, written by Mallory Logan....

Sep 30 • 1554 Views


Hear Mehall on The Enormocast

Check out Climbing Zine publisher, Luke Mehall on the Enormocast with Chris Kalous. Please throw the Enormocast a buck...

Sep 11 • 1046 Views

boulder weekend 017

This is Buildering

In the deep of the twilight, the night, buzzed on something, spirits, smoke, the usual, a change occurs: an athletic...

Aug 19 • 8275 Views

drew haul bag

Dreaming, Waking, and Remembering What Matters by Drew Thayer

The Dream In May 2012 I leaned against the rail of the overlook on the North Chasm View Wall on a balmy afternoon,...

Jun 29 • 2431 Views


Are We Born to Climb? by D Scott Borden

Is climbing as innate as sharing, copulating, greed, or even walking? Many evolutionary biologists would offer that the...

Jun 12 • 3106 Views


A Scenic Cruise and Then Some in the Black Canyon by Alexa Flower

As we descended further into the dark abyss, that haunting, uncanny mood settled in once again. It was an awareness I...

Jun 9 • 2031 Views


Hanging with Stacy Bare and Dodging Watermelons

When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. Hunter S. Thompson made a life and a living off that concept. I was...

Jun 4 • 1178 Views


Fear and Dehydration in Colorado’s Biggest Hole by Drew Thayer

Early summer in Durango, Colorado is great. Blissful. Idyllic. A typical afternoon usually involves waking up from a...

May 27 • 1346 Views


Who is Famous and What Is Hard? with Seth Adams

It was 2004 and Kelly Cordes and Josh Wharton had just climbed the Azeem Ridge on Great Trango Tower in Pakistan, which...

May 7 • 1815 Views


An Ego Spanking In The Gunks by Drew Thayer

We all need to be taken down a notch, as my mother would say, every once in a while. While I don’t necessarily enjoy...

Apr 26 • 1886 Views


The Diamond: A Pervertical Genesis by Alexa Flower

The night was silent apart from our winded breaths and quiet footsteps; largely stifled by the dirt and pine needles...

Apr 3 • 2853 Views


A Map To The Skyland Boulders, Crested Butte, Colorado

[photo of Ben Johnson climbing Blunt Boy (5.10a) Joint Rock]  The Skyland Boulders in Crested Butte have been called...

Mar 25 • 1431 Views


Hear Mehall On The Dirtbag Diaries

Publisher of The Climbing Zine, Luke Mehall, follows his dreams, no matter how absurd. Recently the Dirtbag Diaries...

Mar 13 • 885 Views


Patagonia, Lessons From a Bigger Scale by Drew Thayer

How can I describe the size of this place? How can I describe the dizzying gulfs of air below us as we claw our way...

Feb 5 • 1716 Views


Trim Season and The Mushroom Wall

Cliff took out his trimming scissors and chopped several green buds off the stem of the marijuana plant. After he did...

Jan 9 • 1386 Views


A True Maiden Voyage, A Fire In the Black Canyon

I was riding shotgun in an ‘86 Safari van, smoking a cigarette, and wondering where the hell we were headed. I had...

Jan 8 • 2978 Views


Tons of Tufas, Mexico’s Cumbia Cave, a photo essay

The Cumbia Cave is down a bumpy road in Nuevo León, Mexico. It is located in an area called Las Adjuntas, which is...

Dec 10 • 1810 Views


Colombian Policy by D Scott Borden

I’m sweating in the Colombian sun as I reach for a big flat hold on inverted sandstone. I clip a bolt and move onto a...

Nov 4 • 2418 Views


Blackened, The Black Canyon’s Hallucinogen Wall

The front edge of my helmet drags across the granite as I move my head from side to side. I feel the beads of sweat...

Oct 7 • 2369 Views


A Legend Passes On

Last month I wrote an article on bromance, which as it turns out, has been my most popular article I’ve ever written...

Sep 12 • 3717 Views