Inspiration Station

Gear Gear

Luchador SC_EVL0215_6

Review: Evolv Luchador SC’s

Sep 28 • 89 Views • 1 Comment on Review: Evolv Luchador SC’s

Of all the shoes in my personal quiver this one is the best all arounder. It’s one I use for long multi-pitch climbs, splitter cracks, sport climbing, and bouldering....


Review: 5.10 Team VXi Slippers

This shoe fits like a glove. Perfect for overhanging terrain with foot trickery when you don’t really need to edge these superlight...

Sep 21 • 148 Views

bugs from above beal

Review: Beal Stinger Unicore Golden Dry 9.4 mm rope

How do you choose a single rope for multi-pitch and alpine climbing? Considerations include weight, dry treatment, durability, and the feel...

Aug 31 • 360 Views


Review: Peregrine Radama Tent

This tent is a great value for a 2-person, 3-season backpacking tent with some innovative features. The tent follows the popular half-dome...

Aug 28 • 421 Views


Review: Arc’teryx AR-395a Harness

Canadian ingenuity re-born: an elite all-around harness Let’s cut right to the chase: climbing harnesses range in price from $50 to $180,...

Jul 10 • 1534 Views

Alpha Sport QDs

Review: DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraws

With rock climbing gear we are living in the days of refinement, over pure innovation. Most of the gear is quite similar to what was being...

Jul 10 • 321 Views

Mixed Guide 1

Review: Patagonia Mixed Guide Pants

I’m standing in the closet, packing for weekend of ice climbing or skiing, holding a pair of pants in each hand and asking the same old...

Jun 15 • 538 Views

prusik pant

Review: OR Prusik Pants

Summer is finally upon us again and it’s time to get up and seek adventure in the high country. We dream of jamming clean splitter cracks...

Jun 8 • 516 Views

Climbing Sig Sauer at Indian Creek in the Goldrush Jeans. Photo courtesy of James Q Martin

Review: OR Men’s Goldrush Jeans

Dirtbag instincts suit the gear reviewer well. Which is why, for each and every day over the last two months I’ve worn the new...

May 25 • 901 Views

product shot_2

Review: Singing Rock Penta Helmet

For the last 15 years my climbing helmets have faithfully ping-ponged back and forth between Black Diamond and Petzl, depending on who was...

May 18 • 1058 Views

Vapor V M's

Review: Scarpa Vapor V

My first impression of Scarpa’s redesigned Vapor V was how comfortable they were out of the box. I sized mine tight for performance, yet...

Apr 8 • 3463 Views


Review: Climb Tech Steel Biner with Captive Pin

Love them or hate them, fixed draws are becoming more and more of a staple in the sport climbing world. They make things more convenient,...

Mar 18 • 1047 Views

Fay moderate ice single rope

Review: Beal Opera 8.5mm Rope

Amongst the hot new climbing gear released this season, something I’m most excited about is the newest ultra-light triple-rated rope,...

Mar 4 • 2469 Views

ARC'Teryx Shaun

Review: Arc’teryx Alpha Comp

At the Climbing Zine we get lots of gear to test, sometimes too much to really wear something for longer than a few weeks. The Alpha Comp...

Jan 25 • 1931 Views

Screen shot 2015-02-18 at 8.28.01 AM

Review: Hobie Baja Sunglasses

A line graph showing the hipness of my sunglasses over the years would look like the jagged silhouette of the Teton Range. Peaks and...

Jan 18 • 783 Views


Beginner Dirtbagging – Where to Spend and Where to Save

To dirtbag or not to dirtbag, that is the question. The technique of dirtbagging is one that can only truly be learned by experience....

Jan 15 • 12616 Views


Review: Osprey Mutant 28

The Mutant 28, by Osprey, packs the essentials for a minimalist looking to get into alpine, ice or vertically mixed endeavors....

Jan 14 • 2950 Views

B Griffith Nano Air

Review: Patagonia Nano-Air Hoody

For once, I’m actually psyched to “leave it on,” as their ad campaign suggests. For climbers and skiers, the best characteristic of a...

Jan 1 • 2979 Views

phot Jordan Junck

Review: Westcomb Tango Hoody

Westcomb’s Tango Hoody is a formidable layer for a variety of conditions, with a lot to love in a simple, straightforward package. Having...

Dec 28 • 4434 Views

Trust The Rubber 2

New Shirts: Spread Your Legs And Trust The Rubber

“Spread your legs and trust the rubber,” it’s an old climbing saying, I first heard in Joshua Tree many years ago. We...

Nov 25 • 1541 Views


Review: Big Turtle Shell – Wireless Speaker (Outdoor Tech)

These days, more often than not, someone in a climbing crew of craggers has a speaker. If you want the biggest and the baddest – you...

Nov 4 • 925 Views


Review: Mammut Sensor Rope

The Mammut Sensor is a perfect name for a rope that encourages safety in the way it feels and handles. Retail: 60 meter, 10mm: $299.95 ...

Nov 1 • 1589 Views

edelrid rope rev

Review: Edelrid Corbie 8.6mm Rope

Light is Right! is the new slogan for today’s alpinism. We pare down the grams in our clothing, sleep systems, and carabiners…but is it...

Oct 25 • 2267 Views


Samson’s Top 5, New Climbing Products

As usual the Summer Outdoor Retailer (OR) show in August presented the latest and greatest new gear to climbing media. And, as usual Samson...

Oct 8 • 1655 Views


Review: Evolv Addict

For a climbing slipper priced under $100 the Evolv Addict may be the best out there. The Addicts are a comfortable and durable shoe and one...

Oct 7 • 1415 Views

©Earl Harper

Review: Outdoor Research Ferrosi Hoody

Soft-shell clothing has become popular over the years because of its adaptability, allowing athletes to bring fewer clothes and be more...

Sep 11 • 2578 Views

edelrid in action belaying from top

Review: Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device

There’s always room for innovation in climbing gear, but I thought belay devices had been pretty well figured out. I clip my ATC Guide to...

Sep 4 • 4666 Views


Review: 5.10 Guides

The 5.10 Guide Tennies have long been my favorite approach shoes. I like them primarily for two reasons: the burly sticky rubber on the...

Aug 3 • 2411 Views

pink belaggles

Review: The Belaggles, Belay Glasses

“What are those?” I’ve been asked that question 20 times in the last month, while testing out my new belay glasses. They look like a...

Aug 1 • 4704 Views


Review: Sanuk Hemp

Sanuks have always looked comfortable and sexy – I’ve wanted to check out a pair for a while now. The model I tested out the “Hemp”...

Jun 15 • 1491 Views


Review: Scarpa Zen Pro

Amongst the wide variety of approach shoes available today, these shoes stand out as the armored tank of the fleet. They are extremely...

May 20 • 11669 Views


Review: Core Concepts Hot Dome Hoody

I have a hard time with gear geeks, those who go on and on about features of the equipment for the outdoors. For me, I either like it, or I...

May 11 • 1714 Views

Stories for the Soul Stories for the Soul


Flirting with The Nose In A Day in The Valley of Stone

Sep 30 • 784 Views • No Comments on Flirting with The Nose In A Day in The Valley of Stone

“Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it.” Goerte I grew up in the traditions of western science and puritan...


Castles Made of Sand

As climbers we all have that place, that favorite place where we’ve pushed ourselves to the limit and back, the...

Sep 22 • 191 Views

Shaun bump

Modern Dirtbags: The Workbag

Note: this is a new column for the Zine, Modern Dirtbags The dirtbag in us never dies, but we do grow up. I lived as a...

Sep 14 • 3255 Views

down canyon (north chasm, home of the cruise on the right)

Rocktober in The Black Canyon

My path as a climber had to face a most real enemy: pure unadulterated fear. This fear manifested itself in the biggest...

Sep 11 • 448 Views

Shaun on Freeway

Straight Outta Squampton

I’ve got a confession to make people: I haven’t seen “Straight Outta Compton” yet. Like many hip-hop fans...

Sep 8 • 299 Views

jerid humping

A Truly Stolen Chimney, Hilarity on Ancient Art

True climbing encourages bravery and induces suffering. It’s at the heart of the endeavor, and all seasoned climbers...

Sep 1 • 365 Views

drew golden 1

A Tribute To The Golden Hour by Drew Thayer

Sometimes, the balm of the day is Happy Hour, when we can leave the stress and bustle of work and bike over to a...

Aug 8 • 329 Views

Anthony DeJesus

Rewilding – After Prison, Adventures in The Wild

editor’s note: Last month we got word of a very inspiring project called Rewilding. The project is centered...

Jul 18 • 685 Views


Visions of Clark Mountain by Georgie Abel

I wish I could tell you all about Clark in the exact way that my brain experiences it. But that has proven to be very...

Jul 8 • 338 Views


Hear Mehall on The Enormocast

Check out Climbing Zine publisher, Luke Mehall on the Enormocast with Chris Kalous. Please throw the Enormocast a buck...

Jun 11 • 1362 Views

Rosa Jugging

One Year Later by Nick Chambers

Climbing does not always go as planned. Rosa Malloy-Post of Durango, Colorado, is evidence of that. At the age of 23...

Jun 8 • 740 Views


To Live Is To Fly by Luke Mehall

As I start this piece it’s that time of the year when the Animas River here in Durango looks like a chocolate...

Jun 5 • 414 Views

Dakota Walz Crack

Kansas City Urban Summits, a buildering adventure by Dakota Walz

I could see him clearly from directly across the alleyway. A light was on and a white balding office worker was clearly...

May 26 • 1383 Views

TC finger

Tears of Joy with Tommy Caldwell and Bob Seger

I have a road trip rule: when in doubt, listen to some Bob Seger. This rule stems from a trip a friend of mine, Ben...

May 14 • 748 Views


The Desert is Mightier Than The Sword

I always think I’ll write about something else, but these stories keep happening. Then I realize that is the channel...

Apr 20 • 919 Views

standing rock and canyonlands

The Crimson Bunny (Going at it alone) by Alexis McLean

A roommate and dear friend of mine used to talk both eloquently and incessantly about her Purple Rabbit. She would...

Mar 12 • 846 Views

madeline easter island

Running Wild Amongst Sandy Giants by Madeline Pickering

We arrived to Creek Pasture past midnight to a deafening stillness. Unable to locate our friend’s campsite, we...

Feb 11 • 1115 Views


Remembering How to Believe by Drew Thayer

My life is now unmistakably entwined in the rhythms of grad school; work ebbs and flows, and when it flows it’s high...

Feb 10 • 688 Views


Dawn of a New Age

I knew this whole Dawn Wall climb was big when President Obama started tweeting about it. In case you’ve been living...

Jan 25 • 955 Views

garibotti_r_0143_SM_1200[2] (1)

Video: The Fitz Traverse with Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold

For us posting this video, is a case of “I don’t always (fill in the blank) but when I do…” We...

Jan 12 • 659 Views


The Art of Roping up with a Rando by Dakota Walz

I have been alone on the road bouncing from park to park for 2 months. My car is a wreck. I rarely don’t smell...

Dec 20 • 1812 Views

high on moab

Review – High on Moab by Karl Kelley

“This book is a gift…Karl’s gift to you,” writes Fred Knapp from Sharp End Publishing, in the foreword for the...

Nov 24 • 2079 Views

crew at memorial toilet

Explaining a Memorial Toilet

A memorial toilet is a hard thing to explain. But that’s exactly what my friends were constructing last weekend, a...

Nov 13 • 1635 Views


The Rainbow Wall, Emptying Out by Drew Thayer

“This stillness to which all returns, this is reality, and soul and sanity have no more meaning here than a gust of...

Nov 2 • 3126 Views


Buildering The Mormon Temple Released

As of today Benighted Publications’ first fiction collection is available on Kindle for $0.99. It is titled,...

Nov 1 • 549 Views

The Climbing Zine

Indian Creek Reflection, before it all slips away

The good times are moving fast these days, zipping by as we fly through space on this big ball of rock. As a writer it...

Oct 13 • 2664 Views

Lindsey and Ryan

Lindsey Schauer: The Quintessential Climbing Mom

In the Last Pitch section of the new Climbing Zine, there’s a great, sentimental piece, written by Mallory Logan....

Sep 30 • 1956 Views

boulder weekend 017

This is Buildering

In the deep of the twilight, the night, buzzed on something, spirits, smoke, the usual, a change occurs: an athletic...

Aug 19 • 8559 Views

drew haul bag

Dreaming, Waking, and Remembering What Matters by Drew Thayer

The Dream In May 2012 I leaned against the rail of the overlook on the North Chasm View Wall on a balmy afternoon,...

Jun 29 • 2968 Views


Are We Born to Climb? by D Scott Borden

Is climbing as innate as sharing, copulating, greed, or even walking? Many evolutionary biologists would offer that the...

Jun 12 • 3643 Views


A Scenic Cruise and Then Some in the Black Canyon by Alexa Flower

As we descended further into the dark abyss, that haunting, uncanny mood settled in once again. It was an awareness I...

Jun 9 • 2567 Views


Fear and Dehydration in Colorado’s Biggest Hole by Drew Thayer

Early summer in Durango, Colorado is great. Blissful. Idyllic. A typical afternoon usually involves waking up from a...

May 27 • 1852 Views