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Gear Gear

TechnoX_Mens (1)

Review: Scarpa Techno X

Nov 1 • 617 Views • No Comments on Review: Scarpa Techno X

Scarpa redesigned their most popular shoes this year, with a new model to cover each style of climbing. I had the chance to try out their super-downturned bouldering and...


Review: Tenaya Tarifa’s

This was my first time wearing a pair of Tenayas. I felt like flatlanders must on their first visit to the Rockies. Sure I had heard of...

Oct 18 • 277 Views


Review: Trango Crag Pack

Tim and I had been arguing over one of the unique features of the Trango Crag Pack for weeks – it comes with quart-size trash bags to...

Oct 17 • 240 Views

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Review: Singing Rock Penta Helmet (updated)

UPDATE: Sometimes initial impressions of a piece of gear change after months of use. After all, that’s what we do with climbing...

Oct 16 • 1361 Views

Mammut rope Infinity

Review: Mammut Infinity 9.5 Protect

For as long as I’ve been climbing Mammut ropes have had a reputation for durability and good handling. The Infinity 9.5 Protect more than...

Oct 8 • 310 Views

Luchador SC_EVL0215_6

Review: Evolv Luchador SC’s (updated)

Note: Since we all know we want our climbing gear to stand the test of time The Zine is starting to create updates for the products we...

Sep 28 • 320 Views


Review: 5.10 Team VXi Slippers

This shoe fits like a glove. Perfect for overhanging terrain with foot trickery when you don’t really need to edge these superlight...

Sep 21 • 300 Views

bugs from above beal

Review: Beal Stinger Unicore Golden Dry 9.4 mm rope

How do you choose a single rope for multi-pitch and alpine climbing? Considerations include weight, dry treatment, durability, and the feel...

Aug 31 • 759 Views


Review: Peregrine Radama Tent

This tent is a great value for a 2-person, 3-season backpacking tent with some innovative features. The tent follows the popular half-dome...

Aug 28 • 611 Views


Review: Arc’teryx AR-395a Harness

Canadian ingenuity re-born: an elite all-around harness Let’s cut right to the chase: climbing harnesses range in price from $50 to $180,...

Jul 10 • 2257 Views

Alpha Sport QDs

Review: DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraws

With rock climbing gear we are living in the days of refinement, over pure innovation. Most of the gear is quite similar to what was being...

Jul 10 • 442 Views

Mixed Guide 1

Review: Patagonia Mixed Guide Pants

I’m standing in the closet, packing for weekend of ice climbing or skiing, holding a pair of pants in each hand and asking the same old...

Jun 15 • 904 Views

prusik pant

Review: OR Prusik Pants

Summer is finally upon us again and it’s time to get up and seek adventure in the high country. We dream of jamming clean splitter cracks...

Jun 8 • 710 Views

Climbing Sig Sauer at Indian Creek in the Goldrush Jeans. Photo courtesy of James Q Martin

Review: OR Men’s Goldrush Jeans

Dirtbag instincts suit the gear reviewer well. Which is why, for each and every day over the last two months I’ve worn the new...

May 25 • 1166 Views

Vapor V M's

Review: Scarpa Vapor V

My first impression of Scarpa’s redesigned Vapor V was how comfortable they were out of the box. I sized mine tight for performance, yet...

Apr 8 • 4552 Views


Review: Climb Tech Steel Biner with Captive Pin

Love them or hate them, fixed draws are becoming more and more of a staple in the sport climbing world. They make things more convenient,...

Mar 18 • 1147 Views

Fay moderate ice single rope

Review: Beal Opera 8.5mm Rope

Amongst the hot new climbing gear released this season, something I’m most excited about is the newest ultra-light triple-rated rope,...

Mar 4 • 2819 Views

ARC'Teryx Shaun

Review: Arc’teryx Alpha Comp

At the Climbing Zine we get lots of gear to test, sometimes too much to really wear something for longer than a few weeks. The Alpha Comp...

Jan 25 • 2219 Views

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Review: Hobie Baja Sunglasses

A line graph showing the hipness of my sunglasses over the years would look like the jagged silhouette of the Teton Range. Peaks and...

Jan 18 • 886 Views


Beginner Dirtbagging – Where to Spend and Where to Save

To dirtbag or not to dirtbag, that is the question. The technique of dirtbagging is one that can only truly be learned by experience....

Jan 15 • 12942 Views


Review: Osprey Mutant 28

The Mutant 28, by Osprey, packs the essentials for a minimalist looking to get into alpine, ice or vertically mixed endeavors....

Jan 14 • 3541 Views

B Griffith Nano Air

Review: Patagonia Nano-Air Hoody

For once, I’m actually psyched to “leave it on,” as their ad campaign suggests. For climbers and skiers, the best characteristic of a...

Jan 1 • 3677 Views

phot Jordan Junck

Review: Westcomb Tango Hoody

Westcomb’s Tango Hoody is a formidable layer for a variety of conditions, with a lot to love in a simple, straightforward package. Having...

Dec 28 • 4634 Views


Review: Big Turtle Shell – Wireless Speaker (Outdoor Tech)

These days, more often than not, someone in a climbing crew of craggers has a speaker. If you want the biggest and the baddest – you...

Nov 4 • 1103 Views


Review: Mammut Sensor Rope

The Mammut Sensor is a perfect name for a rope that encourages safety in the way it feels and handles. Retail: 60 meter, 10mm: $299.95 ...

Nov 1 • 1729 Views

edelrid rope rev

Review: Edelrid Corbie 8.6mm Rope

Light is Right! is the new slogan for today’s alpinism. We pare down the grams in our clothing, sleep systems, and carabiners…but is it...

Oct 25 • 2531 Views


Review: Evolv Addict

For a climbing slipper priced under $100 the Evolv Addict may be the best out there. The Addicts are a comfortable and durable shoe and one...

Oct 7 • 1595 Views

©Earl Harper

Review: Outdoor Research Ferrosi Hoody

Soft-shell clothing has become popular over the years because of its adaptability, allowing athletes to bring fewer clothes and be more...

Sep 11 • 2904 Views

edelrid in action belaying from top

Review: Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device

There’s always room for innovation in climbing gear, but I thought belay devices had been pretty well figured out. I clip my ATC Guide to...

Sep 4 • 5329 Views


Review: 5.10 Guides

The 5.10 Guide Tennies have long been my favorite approach shoes. I like them primarily for two reasons: the burly sticky rubber on the...

Aug 3 • 2573 Views

pink belaggles

Review: The Belaggles, Belay Glasses

“What are those?” I’ve been asked that question 20 times in the last month, while testing out my new belay glasses. They look like a...

Aug 1 • 4928 Views


Review: Sanuk Hemp

Sanuks have always looked comfortable and sexy – I’ve wanted to check out a pair for a while now. The model I tested out the “Hemp”...

Jun 15 • 1595 Views

Stories for the Soul Stories for the Soul

amy and rhiannon on castleton

The Sisterhood of the Rope by Rhiannon Williams

Nov 22 • 1124 Views • 1 Comment on The Sisterhood of the Rope by Rhiannon Williams

We pull into the Supercrack parking lot in a rusty, mud smothered Subaru, named Shelly. The lot is dotted with similar vehicles, their windows all dusted by relentless...

spenser split pillar

A Jack In The Box In The Chalk Bag by Spenser Tang-Smith

I woke up before dawn in the parking lot of an apartment complex. My girlfriend and I had been living on the road for...

Nov 11 • 7532 Views

Cyrena - BOC

Modern Climbers: The Ever Evolving and Expansive Climbing Scene by Cyrena Lee

I’ve been climbing for a just over a year now. The first time I pulled on real rock was only a few months ago. Before...

Oct 28 • 4808 Views

jerid humping

A Truly Stolen Chimney, Hilarity on Ancient Art

True climbing encourages bravery and induces suffering. It’s at the heart of the endeavor, and all seasoned climbers...

Oct 18 • 570 Views


Hip-Hop and Climbing by Luke Mehall

The fringe is where the magic happens. Four climbers pack into The Freedom Mobile, a graffiti-ed vehicle, spray painted...

Oct 14 • 2102 Views

tim foulkes. mustache lady's sister

New Wall in Indian Creek

As of last weekend there’s a brand new wall in Indian Creek: The Dove Creek Wall. The best part is it’s in...

Oct 9 • 411 Views


Are We Born to Climb? by D Scott Borden

Is climbing as innate as sharing, copulating, greed, or even walking? Many evolutionary biologists would offer that the...

Oct 7 • 3852 Views


Flirting with The Nose In A Day in The Valley of Stone

“Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it.” Goerte I grew up in...

Sep 30 • 1149 Views

crevasse selfie

Crevasses and The Danger of Bad Judgement by Seth Adams

It was sunny, warm and beautiful. There was no wind, and we were walking across the glacier to the base of our route....

Sep 27 • 942 Views


Castles Made of Sand

As climbers we all have that place, that favorite place where we’ve pushed ourselves to the limit and back, the...

Sep 22 • 344 Views

Shaun bump

Modern Dirtbags: The Workbag

Note: this is a new column for the Zine, Modern Dirtbags The dirtbag in us never dies, but we do grow up. I lived as a...

Sep 14 • 3761 Views

down canyon (north chasm, home of the cruise on the right)

Rocktober in The Black Canyon

My path as a climber had to face a most real enemy: pure unadulterated fear. This fear manifested itself in the biggest...

Sep 11 • 569 Views

Shaun on Freeway

Straight Outta Squampton

I’ve got a confession to make people: I haven’t seen “Straight Outta Compton” yet. Like many hip-hop fans...

Sep 8 • 398 Views

drew golden 1

A Tribute To The Golden Hour by Drew Thayer

Sometimes, the balm of the day is Happy Hour, when we can leave the stress and bustle of work and bike over to a...

Aug 8 • 427 Views

Anthony DeJesus

Rewilding – After Prison, Adventures in The Wild

editor’s note: Last month we got word of a very inspiring project called Rewilding. The project is centered...

Jul 18 • 771 Views


Visions of Clark Mountain by Georgie Abel

I wish I could tell you all about Clark in the exact way that my brain experiences it. But that has proven to be very...

Jul 8 • 431 Views

rasta wig

Rasta, A Wise and Crafty Crag Dog by D Scott Borden

Editor’s note: Longtime Climbing Zine contributor D Scott Borden wrote this piece for Volume 7, and sadly as the...

Jul 6 • 623 Views

Of Love and Stone. Alan

Review: Of Love and Stone by Alan S. North

There is something to be said about reading books written by rock climbers – they seem to consistently capture the...

Jun 16 • 608 Views


Hear Mehall on The Enormocast

Check out Climbing Zine publisher, Luke Mehall on the Enormocast with Chris Kalous. Please throw the Enormocast a buck...

Jun 11 • 1464 Views

Rosa Jugging

One Year Later by Nick Chambers

Climbing does not always go as planned. Rosa Malloy-Post of Durango, Colorado, is evidence of that. At the age of 23...

Jun 8 • 911 Views


To Live Is To Fly by Luke Mehall

As I start this piece it’s that time of the year when the Animas River here in Durango looks like a chocolate...

Jun 5 • 497 Views


Jugs on Jugs by Gaelen Engler

Gaelen Engler’s heartfelt and comical essay on her struggle to find female climbing partners. One final excerpt...

May 31 • 29075 Views

Dakota Walz Crack

Kansas City Urban Summits, a buildering adventure by Dakota Walz

I could see him clearly from directly across the alleyway. A light was on and a white balding office worker was clearly...

May 26 • 1594 Views

TC finger

Tears of Joy with Tommy Caldwell and Bob Seger

I have a road trip rule: when in doubt, listen to some Bob Seger. This rule stems from a trip a friend of mine, Ben...

May 14 • 821 Views


The Freedom Mobile by Luke Mehall

Our vehicles make statements about our lifestyles, and in the mountain town of Crested Butte, Colorado there is quite...

Apr 27 • 393 Views


The Desert is Mightier Than The Sword

I always think I’ll write about something else, but these stories keep happening. Then I realize that is the channel...

Apr 20 • 1098 Views

standing rock and canyonlands

The Crimson Bunny (Going at it alone) by Alexis McLean

A roommate and dear friend of mine used to talk both eloquently and incessantly about her Purple Rabbit. She would...

Mar 12 • 946 Views


Remembering How to Believe by Drew Thayer

My life is now unmistakably entwined in the rhythms of grad school; work ebbs and flows, and when it flows it’s high...

Feb 10 • 769 Views


Dawn of a New Age

I knew this whole Dawn Wall climb was big when President Obama started tweeting about it. In case you’ve been living...

Jan 25 • 1044 Views

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Video: The Fitz Traverse with Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold

For us posting this video, is a case of “I don’t always (fill in the blank) but when I do…” We...

Jan 12 • 775 Views


The Art of Roping up with a Rando by Dakota Walz

I have been alone on the road bouncing from park to park for 2 months. My car is a wreck. I rarely don’t smell...

Dec 20 • 2003 Views

high on moab

Review – High on Moab by Karl Kelley

“This book is a gift…Karl’s gift to you,” writes Fred Knapp from Sharp End Publishing, in the foreword for the...

Nov 24 • 2219 Views