Scarpa redesigned their most popular shoes this year, with a new model to cover each style of climbing. I had the chance to try out their super-downturned bouldering and steep sport shoe (Instinct VS) and their slightly downturned, sensitive performance shoe (Vapor V). This time I round out the trilogy with a review of their flat-lasted…
True climbing encourages bravery and induces suffering. It’s at the heart of the endeavor, and all seasoned climbers recognize this. For most of us it creates a foundation of who we are, builds our character and gives us life philosophies. For most of time climbing was never mainstream. Then, starting with sport climbing, gyms, and…
This was my first time wearing a pair of Tenayas. I felt like flatlanders must on their first visit to the Rockies. Sure I had heard of them and I had seen them in pictures, but damn, why had I waited so long to try them for myself? Reviewed by Shaun Matusewicz Retail: $165 The Tenaya Tarifa’s are…
UPDATE: Sometimes initial impressions of a piece of gear change after months of use. After all, that’s what we do with climbing gear, right? Beat it up, and see if we like it. After six months of use and abuse, Shaun Matusewicz has a different perception of the Penta helmet. I am six months into using…
As of last weekend there’s a brand new wall in Indian Creek: The Dove Creek Wall. The best part is it’s in the shade all day, and also can be combined with a day of climbing at the Optimator Wall, which doesn’t go into the shade until the early afternoon. Also: there’s a 5.9 called…
For as long as I’ve been climbing Mammut ropes have had a reputation for durability and good handling. The Infinity 9.5 Protect more than lives up to the standards they’ve set for themselves; a rope that works for a variety of types of climbing. Retail: $219.95 (for 70 meter) I’ve used this rope for most…
Note: Since we all know we want our climbing gear to stand the test of time The Zine is starting to create updates for the products we review. Our gear reviewers like to climb – as much as possible – and we use and abuse our gear just like you do. If you ever have…
It was sunny, warm and beautiful. There was no wind, and we were walking across the glacier to the base of our route. Next thing I knew, I was falling. I fell in a crevasse. Unroped. Its not something that anyone can plan to do twice. Sarah and I planned the trip for months. I…