November is closing in fast, and on this turn around the fireball, we reach a strange and interesting milestone in American rock climbing. Forty years ago, Earl Wiggins shouldered a rack of hexes and set out on the FA of a smooth and parallel-sided crack situated just up the hillside above a small cattle ranch…
We are psyched to announce our story list for Volume 26! This is our first ever “El Cap sized” issue – with more stories, photos, poetry, and art than ever before. Here’s a look at the list. Link here to subscribe/order. Cover photo by Tom Evans, back cover by Ivan Iozza A Shadow To…
I don’t really know how the normal shit go, so I guess I just play it by ear Silence is all that I hear Listening as close as I can —Mac Miller, “Wings” Note: this piece is published in Volume 26 of The Climbing Zine, now available Banner photo of Felipe Garcia on…
The expenditure of energy on a trip of this sort is massive and one only has so much of this energy. Energy that is accumulated as a person becomes stronger physically, that is called endurance. But the energy that is of such great importance to me is called magic energy. Everyone has this magic in…
Words are from the traditional song “Wild Mountain Thyme.” The basis of this trip was simple: climb rocks and drink scotch. The weather, being highly Scottish, even in the so-called drier month of May, lent itself more to the latter than the former. But hey, we still managed nine days of climbing out of twenty;…
The distinction between a “climber” and “someone who climbs” has always fascinated me; it’s a nuance I’ve observed throughout a decade of routesetting, teaching, and exploring anyplace I could find rock. These observations started small, with friends who found the sport around the same time I did. Gradually, one by one, they stopped telling people,…
When life looks like Easy Street There is danger at your door —Grateful Dead, “Uncle John’s Band” I’m sitting here writing on a cold October morning in El Potrero Chico; yesterday seemed to be summer, and today old man winter showed up. It’s the type of weather, combined with all the war and sadness in…
Out and about, I’m looking good, A fine boy in my neighborhood. Note: this poem is published in Volume 26, now available He checks me out, Says with a smile, “Hey, let’s get drinks and talk a while.” But skies are clear And temps sublime— So sorry, guy, I’ve gotta climb. Get…