Jimmie Dunn is a climbing legend. On El Capitan he succeeded with Cosmos where Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, and Jim Bridwell failed. Solo. He was also under threat of violence by some California climbers, who bullied his attempt. Jim Donini promised to protect him. He dropped his sleeping bag and slept in canvas bag. He…
Last weekend I learned of the demise of Climbing magazine in print, as everyone else did: on the internet. I was actually surprised. My personal prediction was that magazines that have more bullshit than valuable stories and art would be dead within five to ten years. But, the Outside mega corporation managed to expedite that…
Note: this piece was originally published in the Durango Telegraph newspaper. After a decade plus of writing for The Telegraph, Mehall is stepping away from writing his monthly column, to put his energy into other writing and creative projects. (Banner photo of the author by Greg Cairns.) When I was first asked by Missy Votel…
For this episode, we look back at a classic chapter from American Climber, Luke Mehall’s 2016 memoir, and the subject of Season 1 of the DSOM podcast. Check out our KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE campaign: www.climbingzine.com Support the podcast on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/theclimbingzine Discount link for 15% off anything in our online store: https://shop.climbingzine.com/discount/DIRTBAGPODCAST15 Photo of the North Six…
Editor’s note: Longtime Climbing Zine contributor D Scott Borden wrote this piece for Volume 7, and sadly as the Zine was going to press Rasta passed away. Our thoughts are with you and your family at this time Scott. Thanks for such an inspiring piece! -LM We have all seen some cray-cray stuff when it…
Remember when, a while back, some prominent climbers were proclaiming, “the dirtbag is dead”? Well, they were right, it is. Gratefully, of course. We teamed up with Mike Handzlik, and are offering the first couple renditions in the form of stickers and shirts. The stickers are now available, and the shirts are now available to…
Luke sits down with Scott Borden, a friend and climbing partner of 20 years. Scott is a prolific contributor to The Climbing Zine, and his writing first appeared way back in Volume 2. This conversation was recorded at Western Colorado University, where they both graduated from, and where Borden currently is the director of the…
If there’s a hill I’m willing to die on, it’s in the land we call Indian Creek, a part of Bears Ears National Monument. With all the insanity in our country during the past five years, I’ve really focused on this single place. Like many outdoor athletes, I am an obsessive. I need something to…