I needed the perfect rope for my project. It had to be an 80 meter rope and it had to withstand a little more abuse than your average skinny line. I know that because I first worked the route, a 39 meter crack climb in Indian Creek, on a 9.2mm rope that quickly got a core shot when it ran over a sharp edge, sending the rope into an early retirement.
Retail: $305.30 (for the 80 meter dry treated version)
The line would be a first ascent, and had the trademark crisp edges that many new Indian Creek routes have. After burning through a skinny line, I knew I wanted something thicker, but I also wanted to haul as little weight up the wall as possible (Creek racks are already heavy enough). Thus, I chose the Velocity, a 9.8mm rope from Sterling.
Touted by Sterling as the rope Chris Sharma uses while working routes, I found it to suit my needs quite well, and most importantly it didn’t core shot when it ran over the edges. Checking in at 62 grams per meter puts the rope on the lighter end of ropes its diameter, a definite plus. The handling of the rope is smooth for a 9.8mm, a supple yet firm feel.
My feeling about this rope is that it is a perfect “project workhorse”. It is a great rope to use while projecting your line of choice, running up a multi-pitch classic, using as a toprope, or in the case of this testing, using it to both project and to use on the send.
I found this rope to have all the necessary qualities of what I’m looking for in a workhorse, and at 9.8mm that is about the skinniest I’m willing to go. (I’ve worn through way too many skinnier lines on multi-pitch routes that have resulted in core shots.)
In the end the rope fit all the qualities of what I needed for a long Indian Creek project, and it withstood the abuse well enough I’ll be able to use it again on the next one. All in all, a great workhorse for many disciplines: rock, ice (the rope is dry treated), mixed, multipitch, and probably even a big wall. I’d use a skinnier line on a sport climbing project when going for the send, but other than that if you are going to own one 80 meter rope the Velocity would be a solid choice.
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